Sunday 10 March 2013

What The Afghan Turban Means

By Anne Kelley


In countries all over the world, people have been known to don specific forms of symbolism that instantly associates them with a particular group or region. This can be anything from the way they wear their hair or perhaps a special tattoo, to a identifiable article of clothing. Such is the case with the Afghan turban which instantly conveys a lot of information about the bearer to those who encounter him.

In Afghanistan, the covering a man wears on his head is very significant because it lets others know important information about him. This is a country with a strict Islamic government and the distinction of the type of turban worn is well defined. The color often denotes his standing in the community and even his profession.

This is an ancient style of head gear and has been used throughout the centuries by the Pashtun tribes that inhabit both Afghanistan and the border regions of Pakistan. In Pashtu, the covering is known as a lungee and in Hindi it is called a pagree and both languages are used fluently. There is a specific way that this item is to be constructed so as to make it recognizable.

The material from which the lungee is constructed should be lightweight, usually a thin cotton or silk. It measures about a meter wide and should be at least five meters in length. When completely constructed, it looks quite heavy though in reality it only weighs in at a few ounces.

The appearance of an Afghan style of turban is quite unique in its construction as well as its final appearance. The building starts with a foundation of a small, unadorned cap that fits snugly over the top portion of the head. The reason for this is mainly to prevent the hair from becoming tangled in the fabric as it is wound around and wrapped.

The cloth is then wound around the cap, being twisted and folding in a very specific pattern. When properly completed, the fabric will be basically in the shape of a large tubular ring about the head with a small bit of the under cap still showing at the crown. One end of the material will be hanging loose from the top of the lungee and the other will be extended down over the shoulder.

The color of the lungee is also very important as it will alert people as to whether a man is the head of his household, a village elder, a land owner, a religious leader or just a common citizen. Certain individuals in this region possess a great deal of influence and power and are responsible for making many important decisions regarding everything from what goes on in a person's marriage to issues pertaining to the whole village.

The Afghan turban is usually worn only in shades of black and white or the occasional striped pattern. The colors and the way they are worn are how a person is identified within the community. They coverings also serve the purpose of protecting the wearer from the elements of weather and keeping their heads from being either too hot or too cold.




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